Laurel hedging guides

How to Plant a Laurel Hedge

Laurel is easy to plant, but getting it right means your hedge establishes faster, grows thicker and needs less watering in its first year.

Before you start

Decide on the planting line first. Allow for how wide the hedge will grow, and for the spread of its roots and branches, especially if you are planting next to a public footpath, bridleway or your boundary. Plant at least 45cm from a fence or wall so you can trim the back of the hedge, and check for underground pipes and cables before you dig.

How far apart to plant laurel

Plant laurel 60 to 90cm (2 to 3ft) apart in a single row. That works out at roughly 1.7 plants per metre at 60cm spacing and 1.1 plants per metre at 90cm.

Closer spacing gives you a dense screen sooner, but you will need more plants. Wider spacing is cheaper and the hedge still fills in, it just takes a little longer. For an extra-wide, thick screen you can plant a double, staggered row.

Planting a laurel hedge, step by step

  1. Water the plants thoroughly an hour or so before planting. Stand rootballs or pots in a bucket of water if they are dry.
  2. Dig a trench twice as wide as the pots or rootballs and about as deep. Loosen the soil at the bottom with a fork.
  3. Mix good-quality compost into the soil you have dug out. If you like, sprinkle mycorrhizal fungi onto the roots to help them establish.
  4. Set the plants in the trench at your chosen spacing, with the top of each rootball level with the surrounding soil. On rootballed plants, loosen the hessian at the top.
  5. Backfill with the soil and compost mix, keeping it loose around the roots, then firm gently with your heel.
  6. Water in thoroughly, even if the ground is damp.
  7. Spread a 5cm layer of bark mulch along the row, keeping it clear of the stems, and trim back any shoots that stick out beyond the line of the hedge.

When is the best time to plant a laurel hedge?

You can plant pot-grown laurel at almost any time of year, but most gardeners agree autumn is best, especially for cheaper bare-root and rootballed hedging. Why autumn rather than spring? The soil is still warm, so new roots grow before winter. By the time the hot, dry weather of summer arrives, the plants are much better established and less likely to suffer.

Bare-root and rootballed laurel is only available from November to March, while the plants are dormant. Anything planted during the growing season, from March to October, will need regular watering until it settles in.

Aftercare in the first year

The first year is when a new hedge is most vulnerable. Water deeply once or twice a week in dry spells through its first summer; a soaker hose laid along the row makes this easy. Keep the base free of weeds and grass, top up the mulch, and give a general-purpose feed in spring. Once established, see our laurel hedge care guide.

Watch: planting a laurel hedge

Video: How to plant laurel hedge, by Killarney Garden Centre on YouTube.

Our picks

What you need to plant a hedge

Faster establishment

Mycorrhizal root grower

Sprinkle onto the roots at planting time to help new laurel establish a strong root system.

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Easy watering

Soaker hose

Lay along the base of a new hedge and water deeply with no effort through its first summer.

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Planting mix

Tree and shrub compost

Mix with the dug soil when you backfill to give young roots an easy start.

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Weed control

Bark mulch

A 5cm layer along the hedge line keeps weeds down and moisture in.

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Planting questions

Plant laurel hedging 60 to 90cm (2 to 3ft) apart in a single row. At 60cm you need roughly 17 plants for a 10 metre hedge; at 90cm you need about 12.

Closer spacing gives you a dense screen sooner but costs more because you buy more plants. Wider spacing is cheaper and the hedge will still fill in, it just takes an extra season or two.

Laurel is easy to plant, and a well-planted hedge establishes much faster. The aim is to make it easy for the roots to spread.

  1. Mark out the planting line, allowing for the eventual width of the hedge.
  2. Dig a trench twice the width of the pots or rootballs and set the plants in at your chosen spacing, at the same depth they were growing.
  3. Backfill with the dug soil mixed with good compost, firm it gently so the soil stays loose around the roots, and water in thoroughly.

See our full guide to planting a laurel hedge.

Pot-grown laurel can go in at almost any time of year, but early autumn is ideal. The soil is still warm, so roots establish before winter, and the plants avoid the heat and drought of summer in their first year.

Rootballed and bare-root laurel is lifted from the field while dormant and is only available from November to March. It is cheaper than pot-grown stock.

Anything planted during the growing season (March to October) needs regular watering until it is established.

Plant at least 45cm (18in) from a wall or fence, and further if you can. You need room to trim the back of the hedge, otherwise it can push against the fence as it grows and cause damage.

Once the hedge is dense, the back gets little light and growth there slows. It will still grow over the top into your neighbour’s garden, so agree with them how that side will be trimmed.